Shoe-sewing machine



Patented Apr. I l', I899.

F. A. MILLS. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicatioa filed Sept. 9, 1 896.)

8 Sheets-Sheet I.

(No Model.)

.ATTOH Y5 we NORRIS PETERS so. moru\.|mo.. wnsumowu, u. c.

Patented Apr. ll, I899.

8 Sheets-Sheet 2.

F. A. MILLS. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. (Application filed Sept. 9, 1896.)

(No Model.)

a e h NQWWWNJ.

WITNESSES.-

No. 623,099. Patented Apr. u, I899. FQA. MILLS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 9, 1896.) (No Model.) 8 Sheets$heei 3.

? fi ATTO n5 WITNESSES No. 623,099. Patented-Mr. u, I899.

F. A. MILLS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

I A umion filed Sept. 9, 1896.) v (No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheat 4.

WITNESSES: W IIVVE/VTUH a m: uunms PETERS cu, monumau. WASHINGTON, n c,

Patented Apr. I899. F. A. MILLS.

(No Model.)

.. IE? I WITNESSES:

Patented Apr. vll, I899.

F. A. I MILLS. SHDE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 9, 1896.)

8- Sheets-Sheet 6.

(No Model.)

nv VENTOR WITNESSES:

ATTO 5Y5 TNE Norms PEYERS co, PHOTOAJTHO" WASHINGYON, o. c.

N0. 623,099. Patented 'Apr. ll, I899i F. A. MILLS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept, 0, 1896.) (No Model.) 8 Sheets-Shae? 7.

ad 35% Q M j I A7701? 5 n NORRIS PETERS no. PHDYO-LITHO.. WASHINGTON. a. c.

no. 623,099. Patented Apr. u, I899.

- r. A; mus.

SHOE sEwms MACHINE.

(A uaeion filed Sept. 9, 1896.) 7 (No Model.) 8 Sheets-Shoat 8.

%4W'4 {M r By 7 mi NORRIS perms co. woraurnou WASHINGTON u c stood that the pull-back device pulls the said I a citizen of the United States, residing at to that side of the work in which the looper and above theamount that the needle pulled pull-back device is caused to pull from the UNTTED STATES I PATENT OFFICE.

. I FRANCIS ARTHUR MILLS, OF METH'UEN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY

MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO THE MILLS SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF

MAINE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 623,099, dated April 11, 1899.

7 Application filed September 9. 1896. Serial No. 605,297. (No model.) I

To all whom) it may concern: Be-it known that LFRANoIs ARTHUR MILLS,

Methuen, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing- Ma chines, of which the following is a specification.

The improvements are embodied in the machine which I have represented as a boot and shoe sewing machine, but are applicable to machines for sewing other work.

The invention primarily is directed to cooperating mechanisms whereby a stitch-tightening instrument is employed to enter and engage the loop drawn through the work by the needle and to pull back from the work and the needle a greater length of loop than that which is pulled through the work by the needle in the operation of setting and tightening the stitch,and a pull-back device whereby all of that part of the loop which is pulled through the work by the stitch-tightening instrument is pulled back from the loop on the needle, leavin'gonly the full length of loop that the needle pulls through the work for the next stitch. Therefore it will be understood that the pull-back device pulls back is located and before the looper places the thread intothe hook of the needle all of that part of the loop that was drawn through'the work by the stitch-tightening instrument over through the work, and it will also be underpart of the loop back to that side of the work on which the looper is located after the stitchtightening instrument'has set and tightened the stitch and moved forward and given up the loop, sothat the said pull-back device can pull back said part of the loop drawn through the work by said instrument. Among other functions of. this pull-back mechanism is its cooperation with the tensiondevice and with a device which acts to open the loop for the entrance and engagement therewith of the stitch-tightening instrument, whereby the tension device at the tim e of setting and tightening the stitch enough thread to supply the loop-opening device -for the next stitch and hold such supply of thread in readiness to give it up in the opening of the loop on the hends, broadly, the combination, with an instrument for entering and engaging the loop pulled through the work by the needle and then pulling the loop back of the needle to tighten the stitch of a pull-back device for pulling back that part of the loop pulled through the work by the stitch-tightening instrument, so that the latter will have full effeet in tightening each and every stitch.

In the accompanying drawingsIhave shown a machine involving in its construction all the features of my present invention in the form which I at present prefer to employ; but it will be understood that various modifications and changes may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention and without exceeding the scope of the conclud i-ng claims. I

In the drawings, Figure 1 shows in elevation the left side of my sewing-machine, the stitch-forming partsbeing in the positions they occupy to receive the work. Fig. 2 shows the right side of the machine, the stitch-forming parts being in the same positions. Fig. 3 shows the machine in longitudinal vertical section, the stitch-formin g parts being in the same positions. Fig. 4 shows the machine in top View. Fig. 5 is a front view of the machine. Fig. 6 is a rear view of the machine. Fig. 7 shows in detail the channellip of the feed-lever and its relation to the shoe-channel. Fig. 8 shows in horizontal sec tion the rocking and sliding bearing of the feed-lever and on which the actuating-levers for the pull-backdevice and the tension devices are mounted. Fig. 9 shows in horizontal section the bearing for the needle-carrier and the needle-guide and the torsional spring connecting the latter, and Fig. 10 shows in front and rear views the needle-carrier and that part of the sewing-head in which said carrier is supported and operates. Fig. 11

IOO

shows the sewing-head and the position thereon. of the pull-back lever and the tension-actuating lever, thepull-back lever being in its highest position and the tension device at its full tension, the stitch-forming mechanism being shown in corresponding positions. Fig. 12 is a like View showing the positions the pull-back lever and tension device occupy when the tension has been released and the pull-back lever having been partly depressed, the'stitch-forming mechanism being shown in corresponding positions. Fig. 13 is a like view showing the same parts in the positions they occupy when the pull-back lever has reached its full descent in relation to the tension device and the stitch-forming mechanism in theformation of the stitch. Fig. 14 is a like view showing the same parts in the 1 positions they occupy when the pull-back lestitch and the loop-opening finger having returned partly to its normal position. Fig. 21, Sheet 1, shows the relation of the cam and the locking devices when the back-gage is locked. Fig. 22 shows the coupled arms of .the ratchet-tooth-locking device of the back- .gage, and Fig. 23 shows the back-gage.

Fi 24, Sheet 3, shows in profile the cam 44 fgr operating the looper. Fig. 25, Sheet4, shows in profile the cams 58 58 for operating the feed-lever. Fig. 26, Sheet 3, shows in detail vertical section the tension device, its camactuated lever 118, and its brake connection with the tension-wheel. Fig. 27 shows the cam 99 for operating the loop-opener. Fig. 28 shows the cam 107 foroperating the stitchtightening finger device, and Fig. 29 shows in detail the stitch-tightening finger device in the .position itoccupies in relation to the loop and the needle in tightening the stitch.

The swing mechanism is adapted to form the chain or loop stitch and is contained in a sewing-head 2, mounted at the front of a supporting-frame wherein are mounted the operating-cams and the work supporting and feeding devices. The sewing-head overhangs the main frame and carries the sewing mechanism at its underside and in cooperative relation with the feeding and with the work-su pporting devices, so that the workman standing at the front ofthe machine presents and holds the shoe with the feed-channel lip in the sole-channel and the shoe against the supporting devices, which operate beneath the sewing mechanism.

The main frame has the form of an in verted arch, its base 3 being the crown of the arch, with its pillars standing one at the front and the other at the rear. Between these pillars is -mounted a power-driven shaft 4, centrally with the arch and in standards 5 on each side thereon, and upon the shaft are keyed cam-forming cylinders, so as to operate within the arch-space and at each side thereof to operate the working parts of the machine.

The base of the frame is a true plane and is formed with a broad tongue 6, fitted in a surface recess 7 in a base-plate 8, to which the shaft-standards are secured. The baseplate has a surface recess 9,into which tongues 10 of the standards extend and are adjustably secured. The arched frame is firmly secured to the base-plate by a center bolt 11 passing up through a slot 12 therein into the solid base of the arch, whereby the arched frame can be adjusted at right angles to the power-driven shaft, while the standards are secured to the base-plate, so that they can be adjusted to set and to maintain the cam-cylinders on the driven shaft in proper relation to the parts which the cams operate.

The machine may be mounted upon a suitable standard, on which it may have provision for vertical adjustment and for being swiveled horizontally for the convenience of the workman. The upper part of the front pillar of the arched frame is bifurcated to receive the sewing-head, and wherein it is secured and extends both to the front and above the pillar.

The sewing-head is formed of vertical side plates, between -which the needle-carrier is mounted to operate with an oscillating movement toward and from the front in line longitudinally central with the machine, as seen in Figs. 3 and 10. The needle-carrier 13 is mounted loosely upon abearing 14, fitted horizontally in one of the sewing-head plates and secured in its seat by a clamp-screw 15, Fig. 9, so as to permit the bearing to be turned in its seat, while the carrier-is fitted to have an oscillating movement upon its bearin g with a close fit upon and between the inner walls of the said plates and which form guides to give a true movement to the carrier and its needle in piercing the work, as in Fig. 10. j A

guide-arm 16, moving with and upon the needle 17, is fitted loosely upon this bearing and is adapted to have a limited movement thereon with and independent of the movement of the carrier to support and give a firm movement to the needle in piercing the work. In this movement the guide-arm 16 is keptin proper relation to the barb of the needle by the movement of the carrier and the action of a torsion-spring 18, Fig. 9. The bearing end of the guide-arm fits in a recess 19 in the bearing end of the needle-carrier, so that the recess forms a shoulder 20, which as the upper end of the carrier moves forward strikes a pin 21, Fig. 10, in the bearing end of the guidearm and moves the latter back with the re- IIO tracting movement of the needle, so that its barb will not come in contact with the guidearm. A second pin 22 on the bearing end of the needle-guide is placed in position to engage a stop 23, fixed to and projecting inward from the sewing-head in front of the needle-carrier, whereby the forward movement of the needle-carrier is limited in its guiding and supporting function for the needle. This spring connection with the needle-guide is made by an arm 24, seated within and extending through an axial bore in the bearing of the needle-carrier and connected at one end to the needle-guide and at its other end to the spring, which is also connected to the bearing in a way to cause the spring to act by a torsional force upon the needle-guide to press it forward with the forward movement of the needle.

.The needle-operating lever 25 is mounted upon an eccentric fulcrum 26 in the rear pillar of the frame, Fig. 3, and is connected to the needle-carrier by a link 27, and between the link and the said fulcrum the lever is en-- gaged by a cam-groove 28, preferably formed in the face or side of a cylinder 29, and aroll 30, Figs. 2' and 3, secured mediately of the le-' ver. The eccentric fulcrum is made adjust-- able for increasing or diminishing the extent of the backward movement of the needle for a purpose which I shall state. For making such adjustment the eccentric fulcrum 26 is fitted loosely in its bearing 31 in the pillar, and by fitting the needle actuating lever loosely upon said fulcrum the latter can be turned as a screw by its nicked end, Fig. 2, and fastened byjam-screws 32, Fig. 6, Sheet 5.

The looper device depends and operates at the front of the sewing-head to place the loop of thread upon and around the needle. The lever device for feeding the shoe is mounted upon the right side of the sewing-head, so that the feed-lip engages the sole-channel on the right side of the path of the needle. The back-gage is mounted on the left side of the sewing-head, so that it will extend under thev latter, and supports the edge ofthe solo at the points of stitching in the line of the needle and while the latter is piercing the Work, while the slide-rest operates inthe arched frame beneath the back-gage and cooperates with it to support the work below the point at the point of delivery.

has imparted to it both a longitudinal and a rocking movement, whereby in delivering the thread it is caused to traverse a circular path The rear end'of this the needle.

looper-rod terminates in a screw 36 and has a sleeve 37, which passes through the pillar and abuts against jam-nuts 38 on the outer end of the looper-rod. At the inner end of the sleeve a trunnion-head-39 is fitted loosely upon the rod against the sleeve 37 and has rolls 40, Fig. 4, on each side of the rod, which engage cams 41 on the circumference of cylinders fixed upon the driven shaft on each side of the needle-aetuatin g lever and formed for giving the looper-rod a rearward movement in its bearings to bring the thread-deliverin g finger 35 in position to place the thread over and around the needle. (See Fig. 3.) A spring 42, coiled on this rod, constantly tends to force the looper-rod outward to bring its thread-deliverin g finger in position in front of and beneath theneedle. .This spring hasa fixed connection at one end with the looperrod, the other end of said spring being conneoted to the frame, so that it is caused to rock the rod and cause the looper-thread-delivering arm to vibrate to the right. The spring 42 is connected to the rockrod and to the inner end of the sewing-head, so that its torsional force maintains the contact of the roll-arm 43 with the said cam, and it is the conjoint action of the trunnion-head cams 41, the roll-arm cam 44, and the coiled spring 42, connected as stated, that causes the looperfinger to describe the circular path around the needle. WVhile the cams 41 operate upon the trunnion-rolls to force the looper-rod rearward, the coiled spring constantly tends'to force the looper-rod forward, and the provision of the jam-nuts is for adjusting said rod to properly set the looper-arm in relation to In this adjustment the sleeve 37 abuts against the trunnion-h ead 39, and as its rolls constantly bear upon their respective cams the jam-nuts therefore, acting against the sleeve 37 as a fixed point, will set the looper-arm and render the rolls self-adjusting on their cams under the action of the spring.

The feed-lever 46 is fixed on the end of a bearing 47 at the side of the sewing-head and has a compound movementthat is, a vertically-rocking movement-whereby its feedlip 48 on the depending end of the lever is caused to move inward to engage the between substance of the sole-channel and to move outward from such engagement and a move ment with the sole-channel to feed the shoe. The rocking movement is given to the lever by a circumferential cam 49, (seen in dotted lines in Fig. 2 on a cylinder 50,) and which IIC cam a roll 51 on the upper horizontal end of the lever engages and is maintained in such engagement by a spring 52, which connects the lever with a downward pull. The feeding movement of the lever is effected by a second lever 53, pivoted to the top of the sewing-head, the said pivot 54 being in the rear of the bearing 47 of the feed-lever, and the said lever.58' is connected by a hole in said hearing, as seen in Fig. 8. The inner end of this top lever is branched, forming two arms 56, each having a roll 57, which engage each a separate vertical face-cam 58, (see Figs. 4 and 25, Sheet 4,) which cams are adapted to give a horizontal vibratory movement to the front end of said lever 53, which by its pin connection with the bearing 47 of thefeedlever gives an endwise-sliding movement to said bearing, and therebymoves the feed-lever sidewise and its feed-lip along the channel the distance for the feed. These cams 58 are on separate cylinders fixed 'on the shaft on each side of the looper-actuatin g rod, and the cams are so formed for operating the two levers as to cause the feed-lip-to describe an oblique path in respect to the bottom of the channel, as shown in Fig. 7. This oblique path causes the channel-lip to move out from the bottom of the channel while making its return movement for the next feed, at the end of which it moves inward to engage the between substance and then moves to feed the shoe for the next stitch. The branched end of the top lever has a mediately-formed split which by a screw permits the rolls in the arms of said lever to be adjusted to take up any wear of their respective cams.

The back-gage is constructed to give a more satisfactory working in supporting the shoe while the needle is pulling out of the work and the stitch is being set and tightened and a more sensitive yielding function in the contact'of the back-gage with the shoe. I prefer to use a back-gage in the form of a bell-crank lever 59, mediately mounted upon a pivot 60 at the left side of the sewing-head, so that its acting arm will stand downward and extend beneath the sewing-head and present a supporting-bearing against the edge of the sole in line with the needle. The other arm 61 of the back-gage extends rearward horizontally and has a cushioned connection adapted to impart to its work-supporting arm a movement toward and from the work. This cushioned connection has the function of giving a balanced or equalized support to the backgage, whereby its end is caused to strike the shoe with a gentle blow and prevent the feedlip from being forced into the between substance. In the rear of its pivot the back-gage is connected to and between two springs 62, of equal tension, adapted to pull in opposite directions and maintain abalanced resistance to the shoe without regard to any difference there may be in the thickness of the between substance against which the feed-channel lip acts. It is this balancing action that gives a gentle yielding pressure against the shoe on coming in contact with it. The inner end of the back-gage terminates in an eye through which passes a vertical rod 63, which at its lower end is pivotally connected to a camactuated lever 64, which is fulcrumed at the rear of the frame and which engages by a roll 65a cam-path 66 in the side of a cylinder, so as to vibrate the lever, and thereby raise and lower the rod. The springs 62 are each connected to this rod, the lower spring by its lower end and the upper spring by its upper end, and at the meeting ends of these springs they are connected to the eyed end of the back-gage, so as to pull equally thereon in 0pposite directions to operate the gage to and from the work with a balanced action which is self-adjusting to the thickness of the work. The springs are connected to the rod by collars and nuts 67 and to the back-gage at its eyed end. By adjusting the collars and nuts on the rod the tension of the springs can be which-rests on said nuts, is regulated with reference to the feed-lip in the channel-guide, and for effecting these adjustments I make the rod screw-threaded. When the back-gage is supporting the work, it must be locked to resist the pulling of the needle out of the work and allow the stitch to be set and tightened. On the eyed end of the back-gage is fixed a ratchet-rack 69, Figs. 1, 21, and 23, Sheet 1, and in independent relation thereto hangs an arm 70, the lower end of which has a ratchettooth 71, adapted to engage the teeth of the rack 69 and which for that purpose hangs in front of and in horizontal relation to the rack. On the pivot of the hanging arm is also an arm 72, provided with a roll 73, which engages a circumferential cam 74 on a cylinder and which cam acts to release the locking function of the ratchet-tooth. This cam-actuated arm 72 engages the ratchet-tooth arm by a coupling which permits the two arms to have a limited movement upon their pivot independent of each other. This coupling is seen in Fig. 22 and is preferably made by a pin 75 on the arm 70 of the ratchet-tooth and slotted or forked part 76 on the roll-arm 72, the said pin 75 being alittle smaller than the slot to allow such independent movement. A spring connects the ratchet-tooth arm and frame and acts to maintain the locking action of the ratchet-tooth when the cam is not acting to pull the ratchet-tooth away from the rack, as seen in Fig. 21. This spring holds the ratchet-arm in locked position with the rack so long as the back-gage rests against the shoe, and so long as the thickness of the work does not vary the ratchet-arm 70 will engage the same tooth of the rack. l/Vhen', however, the thickness of the substance being sewed varies, the ratchet-arm will be IIO caused to lock in another tooth of the rack.

After the needle has pulled out of the work slotted part of said arm '72, by its connection with the pin '75 on the ratchet-tooth arm, to pull the latter away from the rack, thereby releasing the lock. This release permits the back-gage to be drawn or pulled away from the work by the action of the cam 66 upon the lever 64, which connects the balanced springs, so as to raise by a positive action the spring-connected arm 61 of the back-gage. This raising of the arm is effected by the nu ts 68 on the vertical sprin g-connected rod, which latter is raisedby said lever 64, and when the back-gage is so withdrawn the shoe is fed for the next stitch. The back-gage is then moved forward in advance of the needle against the work, and the ratchet-arm will be drawn by its springinto engagement with the rack. This coupling causes the ratchetarm to strike the rack by a gentle contact and allows the roll to maintain a bearing contact upon the cam.

I Referring to Fig. 1, the arrow '77 shows the cam to turnto the left and the roll 73 upon the highest part of said cam, which extends between the points '78 and 79, and it is during the travel of the roll 73 between these points that theratchet-tooth arm 72 is held out of engagement with the rack 69 of the back-gage. In Fig. 21 the roll is seen upon the lowest part of the cam and the ratchettooth arm to be held in engagement with the rack of the back-gage during the travel of the roll upon thelow cam part. The proportion of these high and low cam parts is that the former is about one-third of the circumference of the circle.

The slide-rest is arranged below the backgage, and its function is to assist in supporting the work while the stitch is being formed. Its horizontal part is of cylindrical form and is seated so as to slide in guideways or boxes in the base of the arched frame, so that it-extends beyond the rear pillar to receive the action of a locking and releasing device. Its horizontal part is tubular and contains a coiled spring 81, Fig. 3,which is connected to the rear end of said slide-rest, the other end of said spring being connected to the front box 82 by a pin or screw83, passing through a slot 84 in the slide, so that the spring pulling upon the'fixed screw constantly tends to force the slide-rest forward. A fin 85 on the slide-rest fits and slides in a recess or groove so in the base of the frame to give the sliderest a free and easy movement, hold its acting end in a firm position to support the work, and acts to limit the forward movement of the slide byabntting against the guide-box 82, as shown in Fig. 3. The spring placed within the chamber of the slide-rest can be easily removed with the latter; and with the front guide-box by unclamping the screw 87, Fig. 2, which binds the box to the frame and which allows the slide-rest to be pulled out at the front of the machine when from any cause it may be found necessary to removeand replace it or the spring. This construction also gives the advantage of usinga very long spring,which gives a more regular pressure of the slide-rest against the shoe whether the slide-rest be all the way-in or all the way out. For locking and releasing the slide-rest I use the cam-lever 64, which operates the back-gage. "This lever has a short arm 88 standing back of its pivot 89, and this short arm has a free bearing connection with a clamping arm or latch pivoted upon the rear end of the frame and crosses the slide-rest, as seen in Figs. 3 and 6. The bearing connection of thelever and arm is made by a screw 91 in the short arm 88 abutting upon a screw 92 in the clamping-arm, and this abutting bearing is made adjustable. The abut ting end of the clamping-arm rests upon a spring 93,which tends constantly to press said clamping'arm upward in engagement with a friction-clamp 94,which partly embraces and which by said armis pressed against the slide-rest, and thereby-lock it when supporting the work. This locking action will be maintained by the concentric portion of the cam-path 66, while the releaseof this lock is effected by that part of the cam-path which is flattened at one side of the circle and which acts to raise the lever at its front end and depresses its short arm 88, thereby depressing the clamping-arm 90,which relieves the friction-clamps of pressure andwhich clamp by gravity falls away from frictional contact with the slide-rest, leaving the latter free to be pressed in.

Cooperative with the needle is an instrument adapted to enter the loop for setting and tightening the stitches and a device for spreading the loop to open it to receive the stitch-tightening instrument, and, referring to the loop-opener, it is seen in Fig. 18 in the position in which it has engaged and opened or spread the loop, while the stitch-tightening instrument is shown in the position in which it has entered the loop afterit has been spread or opened, as seen in Figs. 15, 19, and 20.

The loop-opener consists of atinger device 95, arranged to operate upon the loop between the needle and the work and within the circle of the needle, and is adapted to engage'one part or strand of the loop and open itto allow the stitch-tightening instrument to enter within the loop to perform its function.

The loop-opener is mounted upon a shaft 96, Fig. 2, supported inhorizontal position in the sewing-head, and is by suitable connections caused to vibrate in pendent relation above and at right angles to the line of the loop. These connections may be a lever 9.7, having a roll 98, and a suitable cam 99, Figs.

2 and 27, Sheet 2, engaging the roll to actuate said lever-at the proper time for the purpose stated. This lever has its fulcrum preferably at the rear of the machine and at its front end is adj ustably connected to the loopopener shaft by an outward-projectingcrankarm 100, whereby the loop-opening finger can be vibrated and timed to engage and open the loop in proper relation to the movements of the needle. The means shown for making this adjustmentisa pivotally-connected rightand-leftscrew-coupling 101, having jam-n uts, whereby the coupling is lengthened and shortened to cause the loop-opening finger to engage the loop sooner or later to correspond with the movements of the needle. The cam 00 for operating the loop-opening-finger connections is so formed and timed as to cause said finger to engage and open the loop after the needle has pulled the loop so that it can be engaged by the opening-finger. During the engagement of the stitch-tightening finger with the loop the needle will start to move slightly forward and will continue such movement to assist the tightener in taking the loop from the eye of the needle, which will be prior to setting the stitch, after which the needle will remain at rest long enough to permit the feed of the shoe. At the time the stitch is about to be tightened the action of said cam will cause the loop-opener to return in line with the needle while the stitch is being tightened. The loop-opening finger will then move to its starting position to allow the needle, needle-guide, and needle-carrier to move forward, as seen in Fig. 16.

The stitcl'l-tightening instrument consists of an armor finger 102, arranged to enter the open loop between the needle and the loopopener, and is adapted to engage the loop back of the needle to pull the loop in an oblique direction out from the barb of the needle to tighten and set the stitch, as seen in Figs. 19

and 20. This stitch tightening device is mounted upon a horizontal shaft 103, supported in the sewing-head, and is by suitable connections caused to vibrate'parallel with the line of movement of the needle. These connections may be a crank-arm 104 and a link 105, connecting a lever 106, which is fulcrumed upon the frame, and a suitable cam 107, engaging a roll 108 of said lever to actuate the lever at the proper time for engaging the loop in proper relation to the movements of the needle. (Seen in Figs. 2 and 28,Sheet 2.)

The cam for operating the stitch-tighten ing finger is so formed and timed as to cause the said finger device to enter within the loop after the needle has pulled the loop through the work and the loop-opening finger has per-' permit the formation of the next stitch.

loop by the tightening -finger. The stitch having been tightened, the tightening-finger will be caused to move forward to give a sufficient slack in the loop to permit the feed of the shoe thelength of a stitch, and int-his position said finger will remain at rest until the loop-opener has moved back to its starting position to permit the needle, the needle-guide, and the needle carrier to move forward to the work. When the needle commences to move forward, the'stitch-tightener will also commence to move forward to give up the loop to. For adjusting the stroke of the stitch-tightening instrument in its function of tightening the stitch by a longer or shorter pull upon the loop back of the needle I connect the stitchtightening instrument with its cam-actuating lever 97 by means of the adjustable connection 105, such as a right-and-left screw-coupling stem having jam-nuts.

I prefer to arrange the loop-opener and the stitch-tightener in the relative positions shown with respect to the needle; but it is obvious that their positions may be changed or reversed in relation to each other.

In the operation of the stitch-tightening device and referring to Fig. 20, it will be seen that one strand of the loop is being pulled obliquely from the needle, and this permits the preceding loop to be pulled shorter than would be the case if the two strands were pulled in line with the needle, and thereby effect a tighter stitch with less tension upon the thread, because the preceding loop is thereby shortened and does not require the same tension as would be necessary in pulling the strands parallel to each other. i

The provision for adjusting the needle in relation to the loop-opener is important, because it is very likely to happen that in fitting the parts together the stroke of the needle would fail to pull the loop back far enough so that the opening-finger would not engage it, whereas by giving the needle greaterstroke it would pull the loop so that it would be engaged'by the opening-finger. Therefore by adjusting the eccentric fulcrum of the needleactuating lever so that it will move the latter to the front it will give a longer stroke to the needle, and therebycause it to pull a longer loop and present it for engagement by the opening-finger. Byreversing theadjustment of the eccentric fulcrum of the needle-actuating lever the needle will be caused to pull a shorter loop, if required, to effect the engagement of the opening-finger with the loop. The loop-opening finger can be adjusted for timing its contact with the loop in relation to the stroke or timing of the needle, so that the ,fingers engagement with the loop will be in the proper time. The objects of these adjustments is to provide a remedy for any inaccurate construction in making such parts or in any imperfection thereof when assembled and for compensating for all wear of the parts. For this purpose both the needleactuating lever and the loop-opening device may be adjusted in relation to each other.

Operating conjointly with the loop-opener and the stitch-tightening instrument and the tension device I have produced a device the purpose and function of which is to pull back. all of that part of the loop which the stitch-' tightening instrument pulled through the work and which is that amount over and above the amount which is pulled through the work by the needle, whereby the stitchtightening device is allowed to have a longer pull upon the loop in setting and tightening "the stitch and to reserve the full length of in the form of a lever 109, loosely mounted at' the side of the sewing-head upon the end of the hushed bearing of the fulcrum 47 of the feed-lever 46 and extending back has a roll 110, which engages a cam-path 111, Figs. 11 and 12, on the inner side of a cylinder. The front end of this lever preferably extends in front of the sewing-head and has a grooved roll 112 in front of and just below the tension-wheel, while a second grooved roll 113 is fixed beneath the tension-wheel upon an adjustable arm 114, so that the supply end of the thread passes from the tension-wheel under the fixed roll and up over the lever-roll to the looper device below. This pull-back leverhas a positive up-anddown movement imparted toits thread-roll by the cam 11.1 and is timed for conjoint action with the tension device for pulling back a part of the loop drawn through the .work, as I shall presently state.

To illustrate more particularly the part which my pull-back device is designed to take in the operation of forming the stitches, it may be assumed that in the full stroke of the needle it has pulled a loop of one inch in length throughthe work, as seen in Fig. 17, whereupon the stitch-tightening device is caused to enter the loop and pull it through the work a half-inch longer,'as seen in Fig. 19, and which .would make it an inch and a half pulled through the'work. This half-inch is obtained in the operation of tightening the stitch and is the half-inch which the pull-back device acts to pull back; otherwise there would betoo much thread in the loop for the nextstitch.

The stitch-tightening instrument is located on that side of the work on which the needle is located, and the pull-back device is located. on the opposite side of the work, and while such arrangement is found to give satisfactory results I do not wish to be confined thereto in carrying out allparts of my invention.

It is important to notice that while the needle is making its full retracting movement with the loop and the spreader device is opening the-loop on the needle,'as seen in Fig. 18, a comparatively light tension is put upon the thread to prevent the abrading and cutting thereof in the throat or hook of the needle.

The tension device is constructed to operate with a graduated tension upon the supply end of thethread and a graduated release of the tension by means of the cam-actuated lever, as I will now describe. The tensionwheel 115 for the thread is mounted toturn freely upon an arm which extends laterally from abase-casting 116, fixed upon the top of the sewing-head. Supported by and passing through a vertical bore in this base is a spring-sustained rod 117, which at its lower end connects with a cam-actuated lever 11S and at its upper end is connected by a rod 119 with a brake 120, adapted to engage the tension-wheel and to apply to it a graduated pressure, as seen in Fig. 26, Sheet 3. At its upper end this pressure-rod 117 has a fixed cross-arm 121, through the end of which passes the rod 119 parallel to the pressure-rod, and has at its lower end the friction-brake 120, conforming to and acting upon the inner walls of the flange of the tension-wheel when the pressure-rod is pulled down. A spring 122 on the rod 119 serves, when compressed, to

124 on the latter rod serves to lift the cros'sarm to release the pressure of the spring 122 on the brake-shoe. This pressure and release of the brake-shoe is effected by the action of the cam-actuated lever 118 on the spring-sustained rod 117, and when this rod is pulled down by said lever i-t depresses the springs 124 122, and thereby applies springpressure to the brake, and Vice versa. The connection of said lever and rod is made by an arm 123, which engages a screw-pin on the lower end of the pressure-rod, and a spring 124, Figs. 3 and 26, coiled on this rod between the crossarms and the guide-base, constantly tends to lift said rod andits connected lever, and thereby maintains the lever in contact with its actuating-cam. This cam 125 is constructed on the circumference of a cylinder, and the lever 118 has a roll 126 bearing thereon. A convenient arrangement of the lever is loosely upon the bushing of the bearing 47 of the fulcruni of the feed-lever and between the pullback lever and the side of the sewing-head. Both these levers are retained in their proper relation by a collar 127 on the end of the bushed bearing, as seen in Fig. 8'. The springs on the pressure and brake rods can be adj usted to increase or diminish their force, and the cam 125 is formed to give a graduated pres- -while pulling back to that side of the work in which the needle receives its loop that part of the loop drawn through the work by the stitch-tightening device. In both cases the pressure-rod is pulled down by the action of the cam 125 raising the roll 126 of the lever during one revolution of the machine.

putting the tension upon the thread twice in the formation of each stitch-once while the stitch tightening device is tightening the stitch and once while the pull-back device is pulling back that part of the loop which the stitch-tightening device pulled through the Work-is important, because if I did not put -on the tension when the pull-back device is pulling back the loop the thread would be pulled from the tension device instead of from the loop last formed and my pull-back device could not pullback that part of the loop which the stitch-tightening device pulled through the work.

The tension device which I have described as operating conjointly with the pull-back de vice may be used as a duplex construction, whereby two separate and independent threads may be held upon the machine in readiness to use accordingly as heavy or light work is to be sewed, each. device being properly set or adjusted, one for a thread for heavy work and the other for a thread for light work. The parts of each tension device are of identical construction, and the same pressure-rod connects with and operates either brake-rod. 7

Any suitable waxing and heating device for the thread may be used, and each thread may have a separate conduit which delivers the thread to the tension-wheel.

In the operation, assuming that two stitches have been formed in the work, the first one tightened and the second one ready to be tightened, and the positions of the parts in readiness to form the third stitchthat is, the back-gage is retracted and the slide-rest is unlockedthe looper-arm is in its starting position, the needle is retracted, the stitchtightening instrument is in its partially-retracted position, the loop-opener is at a point.

in line with the path of the needle, the tension upon the thread is released, and the pullback lever device is in its intermediate position, as seen in Figs. 1 and 15. Step by step this third stitch is formed as follows: The needle starts forward and pierces the work This at which the looper is located that part of the loop which the stitch-tightening instrument pulled through the work. Simultaneously with these movements the looper will have made a half-revolution around the needle, as seen in Figs. 11 and 16. The slide-rest is now locked in its full forward movement, and at rest against the work. The looper now moves around and places the thread in the hook of the needle, and simultaneously the needle will have slightly retracted, the feed device has moved for the length of the next stitch, the tension will be released to allow the needle to pull the loop in position to be engaged by the loop-opener, which then receives the thread from the released tension, assisted by the descent of the pull-back lever, and the looper will have moved in line with the needle, as seen in Figs. 12 and 17. The sliderest and the back-gage are still locked against the work, the loop-opener device will open the loop, and simultaneously the pull-back lever will descend and have supplied the loopopener with sufficient thread to open the loop on the needle and the stitch-tightening instrument has entered and engaged the loop between the needle and the loop-opener, as seen in Figs. 13 and 18. The needle has slightly moved forward to allow the stitchtightening device to take the thread out of the hook of the needle, and now the full tension will be given to the thread to allow the stitch-tightening instrument to pull upon the tion of the loop-opener, as seen in Figs. 14

and 19. During this movement of the loop opener the back-gage will have been unlocked and retracted and the slide-rest unlocked, the stitch-tightening instrument will have givenup sufficient length of loop for the feed of the shoe for the next stitch, the tension will have been released, and simultaneously the looper will have moved to its starting position and the feed device will feed the shoefthe length of the next stitch and which willbe the starting-point. (Illustrated in Figs. 1 and 15.)

In Figs. 19 and 29, Sheet 8, I have illustrated the full length of loop drawn by the needle through thework and by dotted lines in Fig. 29 that part of the loop which is drawn by the stitch -tightening instrument away from and back of the needle, and it is this ICC portion of the loop which is drawn back by the pull-back after the stitch-tightening device gives up the loop.

That the function of the pull-back may be more. fully understood in its relation to the stitch-tightener and loop-opener, I may here state that the pull-back serves to supply the needle with thread while at the same time the needle is pulling a loop of thread-through the work, that immediately thereafter the pull-back is caused by its actuatingcam to remain at rest to allow the needle to pull its own supply of loop direct from the tension device and from the loop last formed by the needle, and that after the needle completes its full retracting movement with the loop the pull-back is caused to give up thread to the loop-opener to allow it to open the said loop on the needle without straining or abrading the thread in the eye of the needle in opening the loop, as would be the case if the loopopener was compelled to pull its own supply of thread from the tension device. The loop having been thus opened, the stitch-tightener work; but the pull-back has no function of tightening the stitch.

While I have described the preferred embodiment of my invention, it will be understood that it is not confined in such embodi ment to the particular machine shown and thatchanges in the form, proportions, and manner of details of construction, as are embodied in the terms of the claims herein, may be resorted to without departing from the essential features of my invention. This will be indicated in the claims, as in any one of them the omission of an element or the omission of reference to the particular features of the elements mentioned is intended to be a formal declaration of the fact that the omitted elements or features are not essential to the invention therein set out.

In connection with the invention claimed he'rein I have illustrated and described other features of my invention in a completely-0rganized machine, and as to all and everysueh other feature or features or matters of novelty of devices and combinations of devices so illustrated and described herein I make no claim herein except in and as to 'their combinative relations and functions I claim 1. The combination with a hook-needle and operating mechanism therefor, and a stitchtightening instrument adapted to enter and engage the loop and pull through a greater length of loop than that which is pulled through the work by the needle, of a pullback device and operating mechanism there for tinied in its movements relatively to the needle and stitch tightening instrument, whereby the said pull-back device is caused to pull back that part of the loop pulled through the work by the stitch-tightening instrument after said stitch-tightening instrument has given up the loop, leaving only on the needle the full length of loop the needle pulled through the work for the next stitch.

2. The combination with a hook-needle, and a stitch-tightening device adapted to enter and engage the loop and pull a greater length of loop through the work than that which is pulled by the needle, of a pull-back arranged on that side of the work at which the needle receives the loop to pull it through the work, and mechanism timed to operate said pullback in the way and for the purpose described.

3. Thecombinatiomwithahook-needleand operating mechanism therefor, a loop-opener, a stitch-tightening instrument, and a tension device, of a pull-off device timed to draw from the tension device a supply of thread While under full tension to supply the loopopener with thread to enable said loop-opener to open the next loop on the needle in the way stated.

4. The combination, with the hook-needle, a loop-openin g device, a stitch-tightening device, and a tension device, of a cam-operated lever for the tension device, and a cam-operated thread-drawing and thread-dispensing lever, both said levers being mounted at the side of the machine upon one and the same fulcrum-bearing.

5. In a hook-needle sewing-machine and in combination with the needle and operating mechanism therefor, and a device for pulling the loop beyond the needle to tighten the stitch after the needle has pulled its full length of loop through the work, of a device for pulling back from said loop that part of said loop which was pulled a greater length than that pulled by the needle, substantially as stated. 7

6. The combination in a shoe-sewing machine of a hook-needle, a loop-opening device and a stitch-tightening device, with a pull-0E and give-out device so timed in its operation as to draw from the tension device while under full tension and during the time the stitchtightening device is setting and tightening the stitch enough thread to supply the loopopening device to allow it to open the loop on the needle for the next stitch.

7. In combination, in a sewing-machine, a hook-needle, a looper therefor, a stitch-tightening finger device arranged to operate on the ger device to cause said pull-back device 'to pull back that part of the loop which was pulled through the work by the stitch-tightening finger device and while the latter is moving forward to give up the loop, substantially as described.

8. In combination, in a sewing-machine a hook-needle, a looper, a stitch-tightening instrument, a pull-back device, and actuating mechanism for these several devices timed to operate each device so that after the stitchtightening instru m enthas moved forward and given up the loop the loop is pulled back to that side of the work on which the looper is located and before the looper places the thread into the barb of the needle for the next stitch.

9. In a shoe-sewing machine the following instrui'nentalitiesin combination, viz: ahookneedle, a loop-opener, a stitch-tightener, a combined pull-back and pull-off device, a tension device, a brake therefor, a looper device and mechanism for operating the several devices, the said pull-back and pull-off device being timed in its movements to meet out thread to supply the needle while drawing the loop through the Work, to meet out thread to supply the loop-opener, to pull back that part of the loop supplied by it to the loop-opener and to pull back that part of the loop which the stitch-tightener pulled through the work, and to draw thread from the tension device to supply the loop-opener in opening the loop on. the needle at the time of tightening and a setting the stitch.

10. In a shoe-sewing machine, the co mbination, with a hook-needle, and operating means therefor, a looper, a stitch-tightening instru- 1 ment and a pull-back device, of a tension de- 5 vice so timed as to apply tension upon the; thread twice in the formation of each stitch, once while the tightening device is tightening the stitch and once while the pull-back device is pulling back that part of the loop i which was pulled through the work by the stitch-tightening device.

11. In combination, ahook-needle,alooper,

that a comparatively light tension will be put upon the thread during the retra'ctin g move ment of the needle with the loop and during the opening of said loop, and a greater tension will be put upon the thread while the stitch-tightener is setting and tightening the stitch and the pull-back is pulling back to that side of the work at which the looper is located that part of the loop that the stitchtightener pulled through the work, substantially as set forth.

12. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination, with a hook-needle and operating mechanism therefor, a looper device, a tension device and a stitch-tightening-finger device, operating substantially as described, of a pull-back device for pulling back through the work and the looper a portion of the loop equal to that part of the loop which the stitchtightener pulls through the Work over and above the amount the needle pulls through the work, to that side of the work at which the pull-back and looper are located, before the looper places the thread in the hook of the needle for the next stitch.

13. In combination, a hook-needle, a loopopener, a stitch-tightening device, a tension device, and a pull-back located and operating to pull back the thread in a direction opposite to the direction of the stitch-tightenin g movement of the stitch-tightening device, in the way stated.

14. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination, with the needle thereof, of a stitchtightening device for engaging the loop after it has beendrawn through the work by the needle, actuating mechanism whereby such stitch-tightening device is caused to draw upon the thread and thereby s'et andtighten the stitch, and a pull-back device located upon the side of the work opposite the stitchtightening device, and means for causing said pull-back device to pull back to its side of the work a portion of the loop, as set forth.

FRANCIS ARTHUR MILLS.

Witnesses:

JOHN GRADY, PATRICK DEMPSEY. 

